AHA vs. BHA vs. PHA vs. LHA: Which Acid is Right for Your Skin?

• AHA

Alpha Hydroxy acids or AHA as most call it refers to a group of acids that are naturally found in, among other things, fruit, milk and sugar cane. These include mandelic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid. The top dogs in this category are Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid. 

AHA is water soluble and acts on the skin's surface. It acts as an exfoliator and retains water in the skin, more commonly suited for normal or dry skin.

| Product Recommendations

1. The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + HA

($6.80/30ml, up to 8% cashback at SkinStore)

Achieve superior exfoliation with the Lactic Acid 10% + HA 2% Superficial Peeling Formulation from The Ordinary. Boasting 10% Lactic Acid, the potent formula provides gentle exfoliation and changes skin tone.

Exfoliation tends to cause minor irritation, inflammation or sensitivity, however the Peeling Formulation is fortified with a Tasmanian Pepperberry derivative, which can prevent this condition and leaves the skin feeling calm and comfortable. Also enhanced with heroic hydrating ingredient hyaluronic acid, this super-charged serum strengthens the lipid barrier to improve the skin's ability to attract and retain moisture.

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2. Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Resurfacing Night Serum

($90/30ml, up to 4% cashback at Sephora)

Diminish the signs of ageing and nurture a more refined complexion with the Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum, a high-tech gel that helps to resurface skin and enhance the absorption of other products.

Formulated with a dream team AHA/BHA blend including glycolic, lactic, tartaric, citric and salicylic acids and blended with raspberry extract, T.L.C. Framboos sinks in easily and delivers the most effective and precise level of chemical exfoliation without the harsh side effects like dryness or sensitization. Fine lines, wrinkles, discoloration and other signs of aging will be greatly diminished, along with excess oiliness and the appearance of pores. Horse chestnut, bearberry and white tea help to calm and soothe while improving the appearance of broken capillaries.

Top 8 Best AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) Prudcts For Clear & Radiant Skin

If you’re on a quest for younger-look...

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• BHA

BHA stands for beta hydroxy acids, which is a group of acids that includes salicylic acid and some forms of citric acid. The most popular BHA is salicylic acid. It can be found in a range of different formulas targeted at spot treatments.

BHAs are different from AHA acids in many ways, primarily in solubility. The BHA family is oil soluble, unlike their water soluble counterparts, and has anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it excellent for oily skin, clogged pores or inflamed acne. 

| Product Recommendations

1. Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant

($29.50/118ml, up to 7% cashback at Paula's Choice)

Formulated with 2% BHA (salicylic acid), the exfoliator removes dead skin cells both on the skin's surface and within the pore. Combined with its anti-inflammatory properties, this helps to reduce blemishes and blackheads for a more clarified complexion. 

Aiding salicylic acid in its blemish-clearing mission, methylpropanediol enhances absorption so you can get the most out of each and every ingredient, while simultaneously boosting hydration levels, and green tea extract delivers a hefty dose of antioxidants to soothe and protect.

2. The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque

($12/50ml, up to 4% cashback at Sephora)

Reveal radiant skin with The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque, a rinse-off skincare formula enriched with nourishing ingredients to help promote a fresh and smooth complexion.

The masque features a high concentration of pore-cleansing BHAs, at the correct pH for optimal action. Additionally featuring black charcoal derived from vegetable matter and Amazonian clays that work together to provide a highly absorbent, balancing action for oily and blemish prone skin.

What is Salicylic Acid? 8 Best Salicylic Acid Products for Acne Treatment

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• PHA

Polyhydroxy acids — aka PHAs — are chemical exfoliants, and are considered 'cousins' of alpha hydroxy acids, as they are, in fact, second-generation AHAs. The most common PHAs are gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic acid.

PHAs have larger molecules than the AHAs, which means that they penetrate more slowly into the skin and thus do not exfoliate as strongly as AHAs and BHA. PHAs also bind moisture to the skin and acts as antioxidants. Therefore, they are useful for exfoliating and treating acne in those with sensitive skin.

| Product Recommendations

1. Neostrata Restore PHA Facial Cleanser

($36/200ml, up to 7% cashback at Dermstore)

This soap-free, non-foaming gel cleanser formulation gently cleanses and prepares the skin to optimize the skincare regimen that follows. Formulated with a non-irritating Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA), known to lightly exfoliate without drying skin's protective moisture barrier. Panthenol fortifies and replenishes moisture, soothing inflammation and irritation as it promotes healing for a comfortable feel and refreshed look.

Suitable for all skin types, this formula is great for those with sensitive skin or anyone who has recently undergone an in-office procedure like microdermabrasion or a chemical peel. 

2. The Inkey List PHA Toner

($10.97/100ml, up to 9% cashback at Feelunique US)

Designed to revitalise dull, dry and congested complexions, this formula calls upon poly-hydroxy acids to gently exfoliate the upper layer of your skin: clearing dead skin cells and blocked pores. The beauty of this toner lies in the natural humectant properties of PHAs, which improves your skin's ability to retain moisture, promising an enriching and sensitive-friendly exfoliating moment. 

Combined with the incredibly nourishing and gentle aloe barbadensis leaf juice to prevent future dryness and a 3% niacinamide solution to help minimise pores, improve your texture and dump dullness, there's nothing not to love about this toner.

• LHA

LHAs, Lipo Hydroxy Acids, are BHAs similar to salicylic acid but more lipophilic; yet, their penetration depth is smaller. LHA lies in its gentle, non-irritating mode of exfoliation. Meaning it’s tough on acne, gentle on sensitive skin. In the cosmetic industry, LHA is also known as capryloyl salicylic acid.

While it penetrates less deeply than salicylic acid, LHA is more lipophilic, meaning it is better able to dissolve in fats, oils and lipids, which is ideal for acne-prone and sensitve skins.

| Product Recommendations

1. La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Dual Acne Treatment

($29.99/40ml, up to 8% cashback at La Roche-Posay)

La Roche-Posay Effaclar Duo Dual Action Acne Treatment with Benzoyl Peroxide is the only acne treatment available with micronized benzoyl peroxide (5.5%) and Lipo Hydroxy Acid (0.4%) to treat acne deep in the skin. 

Micronized benzoyl peroxide, with much smaller particles than the traditional formulations, penetrates the pores more deeply to destroy acne-causing bacteria and regulate oil. Lipohydroxy acid (LHA) has been shown to exfoliate six times more effectively, but far more gently, than the regular salicylic acid from which it's derived. 

2. SkinCeuticals LHA Cleansing Gel

($41/240ml, up to 7% cashback at Dermstore)

LHA Cleanser is a targeted exfoliating cleanser featuring a conditioning surfactant and a 12% concentration of key ingredients combining lipo-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, glycerin, and sorbitol to remove excess oils and makeup, while decongesting pores and brightening skin. 

Formulated for aging skin prone to breakouts, this deep cleansing gel gently refines the appearance of congested pores and helps to reduce blemishes without drying the skin.

• The Conclusion

AHA and BHA are similar in that they act to breakdown the bonds which hold dead skin cells together. AHA is typically recommended for normal to dry skin, while BHA for normal to oily skin. PHA is similar to AHA but claimed to more hydrating and gentler on the skin. LHA however, is the most gentle among the four but just as effective, partly due to having an active pH of 5.5 which is the same level as the skin. This makes it less irritating and hence more compatible for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, also suitable in treating skin conditions such as rosacea or rosacea acne. 

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