Rolex Submariner Real vs. Fake Guide 2024: How Can I Tell If It Is Real?

About Rolex Submariner 

Launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner is the first divers’ wristwatch to be waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet) – now 300 metres (1,000 feet). Its major features, such as the graduated rotatable bezel, the luminescent display, the large hands and hour markers, have been a driving force in the creation of the long line of Rolex divers’ watches which followed. The Submariner is an iconic timepiece whose renown now extends beyond the professional world it was first designed for. The Submariner, the ultimate standard.

Features

1. A true divers’ watch by design

2. Monitor diving time

3. Triple waterproofness system

4. Chromalight display

Rolex Submariner Models

Rolex Submariner offers eight models, as shown below.

Price

$9,100-$42,000. The price of a Submariner ranges from $9,100 to $42,000. The most popular Rolex Submariner references are 124060 & 126610LN which have an MSRP of $9,100 and $10,250. The Submariner collection does appreciate in value after it's been purchased new.

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Rolex Submariner Real vs. Fake 

1. Model Number

A real Rolex watch must have a verifiable model number. The model number is seen on the 12 o’clock side of the watch where the band and the lug meet. There should also be an engraving of “Orig. Rolex Design” on top of the model number. You may need to remove the band to see the number. To do this, simply use a paper clip to remove the pin that keeps the band in place.

• 4-digit Series (Vintage Submariner Watches)

Rolex first introduced the Submariner in 1953. Over the past several decades, numerous upgrades have been made to the collection that can help determine which Rolex series your Submariner belongs to. For example, from 1953 until the late 1970s, the Submariner reference number was only 4 digits long. By simply looking at the number, you can determine that the watch is a vintage Rolex Submariner.

• 5-Digit Series and Transitional References

The second generation of the 5-digit series of Submariner watches followed shortly after in the late 1980s, with 1661x reference numbers. This era marked the turning point for the modern Submariner as we know it today, and the upgrades introduced on the previous transitional references became established features of the Rolex Submariner’s design. The Caliber 3135 movement also made its debut, where it remained the Submariner Date’s go-to movement until 2020 when it was replaced by the Caliber 3235.

• 6-digit Series (Ceramic Bezels)

Compared to any 5-digit Submariner, the 6-digit series is noticeably more contemporary in design. For starters, the “Super Case” features broader lugs and thicker crown guards. Despite keeping the same 40mm diameter, the case appears noticeably larger and more angular on the wrist. The 6-digit series also features a “Maxi” dial with larger markers and hands (although you will also find a Maxi dial on the 50th-anniversary edition ref. 16610LV from the previous series). Watches produced after 2008 also feature blue luminous Chromalight on the dial. The bezel is still uni-directional – only now, the aluminum insert is gone and replaced by one made from a highly-resilient and proprietary “Cerachrom” ceramic material. On September 1st, 2020, Rolex introduced a brand-new generation of 6-digit Submariner watches, complete with a larger 41mm case and the Caliber 3235 Perpetual movement. To differentiate this series from the original 6-digit Submariner, Rolex gave it a reference sequence beginning with “126” but the rest of the reference number.

A Rolex model number is always engraved deeply into the metal, while the fake watches have model numbers that are simply etched with acid. 

Note: The placement of the serial number is also a sign of whether it is a true Rolex or not. Look for the serial number on the 6 o’clock side where the band connects to the lug. On a new authentic Rolex watch, the serial number is seen on the inner bezel.

2. Caseback Engravings 

For Rolexes manufactured before 2007, a hologram of the crown logo is found on the caseback. Versions of Rolex manufactured after 2007 should not feature the logo. Most casebacks of newer versions are plain polished steel. Includes Rolex Submariner.

There is a noticeable difference in the quality of finish on the casebacks of both watches. The genuine Rolex has a much better finish with consistent color of the steel and a smooth brushed surface throughout. On the other hand, the counterfeit Rolex has an inconsistent color with mixed colored metal visible on the caseback. This is further emphasized by the deeper grooves of the brush strokes on the surface.

3. Engraving on Bezel

On the genuine Rolex, the numbers and markers on the bezel are deeply engraved and have a distinct groove on the surface, whereas the bezel on the counterfeit watch is completely smooth with no groove.

The Submariner’s unidirectional rotatable bezel has knurled edges that offer excellent grip when setting the dive time. It rotates notch by notch, accompanied by distinctive clicks. Thanks to the embedded Chromalight capsule on the zero marker, the bezel can also be used easily in dark underwater environments.

In addtion, when comparing the bezels of the real Rolex and the counterfeit watch, the font on the numbers is noticeably distinct. Specifically, the numbers on the replica bezel appear bolder and thicker compared to the font on the genuine Rolex bezel. One can easily spot this difference by comparing the numbers 2, 4, and 5 on both bezels.

4. Self-Winding And Mechanical Movements

Rolex craftsmanship is of high quality, and often unmatched. The movement of Rolex Submariner must have an engraved “Rolex Logo” on it. The location of the engraving on the Rolex movement differs from one model to another. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to know this unless you open the watch.

The Submariner and Submariner Date models are equipped respectively with calibre 3230 – unveiled in 2020 – and calibre 3235, self-winding mechanical movements entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. Their architecture, manufacturing and innovative features make them singularly precise and reliable. They are fitted with the exclusive blue Parachrom hairspring that is highly resistant to shocks.

5. Date Appears Bigger

The cyclops glass feature at 3 o’clock is supposed to magnify the date number by 2.5x legibility. The cyclops glass always protrudes above the crystal, like a bubble—it is never flat and never fitted under the crystal. Run a finger over the watch crystal and feel the lens. You should feel a bump on the convex lens across the date. A flat Cyclops means that the Rolex watch is a fake. Another way to test it is to hold the watch sideways and look at the date without the Cyclops. If the size of the date appears the same, then it’s not a genuine Rolex watch.

A other way to identify a fake Rolex is by observing its date feature. Rolex watches have an instantaneous date display, meaning the date changes precisely at midnight, not gradually. If a Rolex replica shows an in-between date (mid roll) on the dial, it is a telltale sign of a fake since the real Rolex would change the date immediately. This characteristic might not be noticeable unless you have the watch for more than a day, but ideally, you should have already identified the counterfeit before then.

6. The Winding Crown

The small knob on the side, which is used to set the time, is known as the crown. A genuine Rolex has a crown logo on the crown of the watch. The logo is made from one metal alone with exquisite detail. On a counterfeit Rolex watch, however, the crown logo is usually made of two or more pieces of metal joined together. Use a magnifying glass to examine the crown and the crown logo thoroughly.

In recent models, the coronet is still there but there are added bars or dots under. These bars or dots will symbolize the watch being either a Twinlock or Triplock crown as well as the material. A steel or yellow gold twinlock crown will have a bar, while the platinum model will have a single dot. For a triplock, a white gold crown features a larger dot between two smaller, compared to the platinum model with a small dot between two larger. On the authentic Rolex, the markings of three small dots under the crown and the Rolex crown itself protrude outwards, whereas on the counterfeit, the markings are much flatter.

7. Pip or Pearl

The lume pip located at the 12 o’clock position on the authentic Rolex bezel is distinguished by a silver lining around it and fits seamlessly within the confines of the triangle marker surrounding it. Conversely, the lume pip on the counterfeit Rolex’s bezel has a larger, thicker border that extends outside the triangle marker’s boundary. Additionally, it lacks lume material, rendering it unable to glow in the dark like the authentic Rolex bezel’s pip.

8. Rolex Bracelet

In the authentic Rolex, the links are made of brushed metal all around the bracelet, whereas in the fake Rolex, only the outer links are brushed metal and the center links are polished, giving them a shinier appearance. The difference in the size and width of the bracelet links is another visible distinction between the two watches. The links on the authentic Rolex are thicker and have a more robust appearance, whereas the links on the replica are noticeably thinner and more slender. 

On the authentic Rolex, the crown is located such that the lowermost part of the crown acts as part of the concealed flip-lock clasp mechanism, serving as a ledge to facilitate opening. On the replica, the entire crown is embedded within the center link, and there is no part of it overhanging the edge as there is on the genuine Rolex. Moreover, the “hidden” flip-lock clasp on the replica is not very concealed and is evidently a separate piece that protrudes further than the rest of the clasp.

9. Weigh The Watch

A genuine Rolex watch is always heavier than a knockoff. Before purchasing a watch, do some quick research on Google and check for the actual weight of the Rolex model you want to purchase. Then, weigh the item you are looking at. If it does not weigh the same amount as what you have researched, then it is surely a fake watch.

Verdict

Knowing how to spot a fake Rolex prevents you from being scammed. Skip the pawn shop and second hand stores and always buy from an official Rolex dealer to guarantee that the products being sold are legitimate, even on pre owned Rolex watches. If the price is too good to be true, that tells you the watch is not the real deal. Rolex timepieces, after all, is made with high-quality materials and craftsmanship like no other, which explains its hefty price tag.

Is A Rolex Submariner A Good Investment? 

The Rolex Submariner is the perfect watch for those who want a classic design with modern features. It is also an excellent investment piece that will hold its value over time. The Rolex Submariner is the perfect choice if you're looking for a watch that will elevate your personal style.

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