Niacinamide vs. Retinol vs. Azelaic Acid: Which is the Most Effective Ingredient for Acne?

• The Comparison
  

| What Is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide,  also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly improve enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, dullness, and a weakened surface.

In addition, niacinamide can also reduce the impact of environmental damage as it has the ability to improve the skin's barriers and also helps the skin to repair signs of past damage. Niacinamide is also applied to the skin for treating eczema, as well as a skin condition called inflammatory acne vulgaris.

| How It's Beneficial for Acne

One of the biggest appeals of niacinamide is its long list of benefits, not to mention how well it cooperates with both your own skin and other ingredients.

It can reduce the appearance of pustules and papules as it minimises inflammation, redness and blotchiness and prevents the oil-producing glands from going into overdrive. It works beautifully to help strengthen your skin barrier, and repair past damage such as post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and acne scarring. It also helps to keep pores clean, it helps to stop dirt, oil and debris from getting trapped in the pore, along with tightening and minimizing pore size when used consistently.

| Product Recommendations

1. The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% 

($5.90, up to 12% cashback at Skinstore)

Using advanced science and high concentrations of vitamins and minerals, the lightweight serum infuses skin with an intense dose of Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) that has been proven to minimise the look of blemishes and discolouration. A high 10% concentration of this vitamin is supported in the formula by zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid to balance visible aspects of sebum activity.

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2.  Paula's Choice 10% Niacinamide Booster

($44, up to 7% cashback at Paula's Choice)

10% Niacinamide Booster is the first concentrated 10% niacinamide formula blended with natural calming and superior hydrating ingredients to address the frustrating combination of enlarged pores plus visible signs of aging.

The light-as-water texture is designed to dramatically enhance your skincare while also providing soothing agents to promote visibly calm skin. Antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients make this product a multi-tasking must-have solution for all skin types.

3. Olay Regenerist Retinol24 Night Serum

($29.99, up to 15% cashback at Olay)

Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Serum combines two ultra-potent ingredients: Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) + Retinoid Complex for 24 hours of hydration, as well as a bounty of other benefits. This night face serum will bring you visible improvements in fine lines & wrinkles, smoothness, brightness, firming, dark spots, and pores. This fragrance and dye free formula absorbs quickly and goes deep into your skin’s surface so you wake up every morning to younger-looking, radiant skin. 

| What Is Retinol?

Retinol is a retinoid, a derivative of vitamin A which occurs naturally in your skin. It can support the skin on a cellular level, working to contribute to the natural processes of cell turnover and collagen production.

| How It's Beneficial for Acne

Retinol can increase the skin-cell turnover rate by getting rid of the top layer of dead skin cells, and promoting the growth of new collagen and healthy new skin cells. It is great for reducing the size and frequency of blackheads, whiteheads, and even deeper painful pimples, due to its skin-cell turnover abilities. Plus, it will improve the overall texture and tone of your skin. 

| Retinol vs. Niacinamide

Niacinamide and retinol are popular skin care ingredients that can treat acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging. While they have similar effects, retinol is more potent. However, it may also cause more significant side effects.

It is possible to use the ingredients alone or in combination. Research indicates that using both together may provide greater benefits and reduce the side effects of using retinol alone. Research also suggests that the combination improves tone, signs of aging, and acne.

How you pair the two together is a matter of preference, but the typical skin-care layering rules still apply.

The golden rule is to begin with the lightest formulation and build up layers with heavier textures so the heavier products can penetrate through the lighter ones to be properly absorbed. Start with water based products, follow with oil, emulsions, and finish with heavier creams. You can use both ingredients day or night—just make sure to follow with broad-spectrum sun protection during the day.

If you find that your skin becomes red, flaky or feels uncomfortable, you may need to decrease the frequency of application or move down to lower concentrations of the bio-active ingredients.

1. Roc Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream 

($26.99, up to 6% cashback at Walgreens)

Designed for those with skin sensitive to retinol, this gentle facial night cream is formulated with a milder form of retinol in moisturizing cream to reduce irritation and keep the skin hydrated – not flaky.

It also contains hyaluronic acid to help bind essential moisture in your skin to re-plump wrinkles. Tested by dermatologists and clinically proven to visibly reduce the look of both fine lines and deep wrinkles in 12 weeks, RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream is oil-free and non-comedogenic.

2. Neutrogena Rapid Wrinkle Repair Anti-Aging Serum

($24.59, up to 8% cashback at Rite Aid)

This daily facial serum formula contains Accelerated Retinol SA (Neutrogena's fastest retinol formula) and is clinically proven to leave skin feeling smoother and looking younger. Retinol is a powerful ingredient that fights fine lines, dullness, wrinkles and dark spots. Plus, Hyaluronic Acid adds plumping moisture to help hydrate & rejuvenate the look of skin, making it the perfect addition to an at-home skincare routine. While vitamin C helps to brighten skin, and tackle uneven skin tone and discoloration. 

3. Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Line Erasing Night Serum Capsules

($51/30-piece, up to 13% cashback at Elizabeth Arden)

Improve the appearance of skin with Elizabeth Arden Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum, an encapsulated Retinol formula that targets signs of aging to promote smoother, younger-looking skin. 

Each is 76% more potent that unencapsulated retinol. Ceramides help replenish skin's natural ceramides to reinforce skin's moisture barrier; retinol enhances skin's natural collagen to visibly reduce lines and wrinkles; and youth-restoring peptides promote wrinkle-smoothing and improve the appearance of skin tone and elasticity. Avocado, sunflower seed and olive oils deliver moisturizing and skin conditioning benefits.

HOW TO USE: Gently twist the tab around twice to open the capsule and squeeze onto your fingertips. Smooth the serum over your face and neck each night before your moisturizer.

| What Is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally-occurring acid, relatively gentle exfoliator, and a part of the dicarboxylic acid family. It's a separate category of acids from the well-known alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). Often considered to be an effective acid for helping the skin return to a naturally balanced state, azelaic acid is also counted among the gentler of exfoliating acids due to its high molecular weight.

| How It's Beneficial for Acne

Individuals with sensitive, dry, and/or acne-prone skin will typically find azelaic acid to be an exceptionally gentle, yet effective ingredient.  Azelaic acid is effective in treating both comedonal and inflammatory acne as well as rosacea thanks to its antibacterial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Azelaic acid is also used for treating skin pigmentation concerns, including melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)—especially among darker skin patients.

As if all that's not enough, due to the keratolytic effects of azelaic acid, it can also be used by itself or in conjunction with other exfoliating acids for treating keratosis pilaris. 

| Azelaic Acid vs. Niacinamide

When it comes to choosing the ideal ingredients for your skincare goals, you don't necessarily need to choose between niacinamide or azelaic acid for acne. In fact, azelaic acid and niacinamide may complement each other's effects, offering a winning combination that can help you make exceptional progress in supporting a clearer complexion while also reducing the appearance of dark spots and acne scarring. 

If you have extremely dry skin, you may find that niacinamide is better than azelaic acid due to its ability to support the skin's natural protective barrier (and thus, encourage moisture retention). But in general, these two ingredients make for a dynamic duo with a wide range of potential benefits to offer.

| Azelaic Acid vs. Retinol

Azelaic acid and retinol are often compared for their potential to support improvements in the appearance of acne, skin tone and texture, and overall radiance. In fact, you can even combine the two and potentially reap the benefits of their complementary effects. If you have sensitive or extremely dry skin, you may find that retinol leads to mild irritation. In this case, you can still support similar goals with azelaic acid alone.

1. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% 

($10, up to 5% cashback at Sephora)

Suitable for all skin types, the Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% 30ml is a versatile, multi-functioning gel that will leave users with a uniform and glowing complexion. This high-purity azelaic acid concentration is smoothed onto the complexion in a lightweight cream-gel that feels comfortable against the skin. Promoting a brighter appearance, the treatment also helps improve the texture while working to reduce uneven pigment and blemishes for a more even tone.

2. Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster 

($38, up to 7% cashback at Paula's Choice)

Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster is a multitasking cream-gel formula that reduces the look of blemishes, smooths bumpy texture, calms redness, and steadily fades uneven skin tone and post-breakout marks. Specially formulated with azelaic and salicylic acids, this lightweight cream aims to reduce the appearance of blemishes and post-breakout marks, while licorice root extracts work to nourish the skin and calm irritation. 

3. SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment

($105, up to 6% cashback at SkinCeuticals)

Specially formulated with 3% azelaic acid to target clogged pores, the Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment is the perfect complement for oily and blemish-prone skin. 2% alpha arbutin helps to inhibit "melanosome maturation," meaning it treats discoloration and hyperpigmentation from acne or other inflammatory conditions. Achieve bright, smooth, and clear skin with this gentle daily moisturizer with a soothing botanical blend of cucumber, thyme, and olive leaf extracts. 

This oil-free, lightweight moisturizer with a gel-creme texture targets dullness, redness, and excess oil production even in sensitive skin. 

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